Max Plastix

Halo: If you build with a Halo, this X Endstop mount will not work as shown, since the top of the frame is blocked. You will need to print an X Endstop mount that bolts to the Bottom of the top extrusion instead. For example:

Railcore II X and Y Endstop Brackets by theMachinista on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:375969...

Before mounting the carriages, do a quick test to make sure the bare rail blocks travel smooth from end to end. Note how they sound and feel as they roll.

After mounting the carriages, check again that each one moves smoothly as before, and no new binding or rough spots have been introduced by mounting the carriages.

There might be some (tilt) play in how the carriages mount to the rail blocks, so take extra care to make sure they are nicely horizontal and level to the rail.

While the standard build here is button-head screws for the top & side set screws, consider replacing with Cap Head screws if you have them. These should get a bit of Loctite and go in pretty tight, so cap-heads will help prevent stripping later on removal.

It’s worth noting here that shims and washers for spacing should be added to the Head side of the bolt, because you don’t want to adjust the height of the idlers (or the belt path). The bottom of the stack should remain just one shim around each idler, close to the carriage.

The height of the belt path is determined entirely by the Belt Retainer height, which is not adjustable. All the idlers and pulleys must match that height as closely as possible.

If there is zero up/down play in the stack, it might be too tight. Ideally, you want less than one shim in play.

(Halo) The thicker material of the Halo causes the motor to sit a bit lower, with less usable motor shaft. Install this Front Pulley “right side up” with the Teeth facing Up to better reach the belt and position the grub screw. This way, the pulley is fully on the shaft when aligned, rather than hanging off the tip of the shaft.

The Panasonic kit SSR has a protective plastic cover over the AC terminals, 1 & 2. This cover needs to be opened (flipped back) to fully remove the screw and install the ring terminal. The screw is mildly captive, so will take some unscrewing to release entirely. Re-install the snap cover after installing both 1 & 2.

Note that 1 & 2 are interchangeable A/C lines if this makes routing easier.

Yes, this Ribbon Cable is longer than the distance between boards. You have your choice of the classic “bow” outward, or ripple fold, or carefully removing one of the long IDC headers and shortening the cable to size (not recommended).

There is a free Android app from Gates, the maker of belts and pulleys, to help measure the vibration frequency by sound and your phone microphone. It can be downloaded here https://play.google.com/store/apps/detai...

This part about “the hole for the leadscrew lines up over the stepper” is very important, as centering the motor will center the leadscrew and keep it from waggling around as Z goes up and down.

To center the motor, print the “Z Alignment Tool”. This is a post that goes over the motor shaft and fits tightly into the Yoke hole. Slide the yoke down the rail (careful not to off the end of the rail) and position the yoke over the alignment tool post. Now the motor is centered, tighten nuts, make Z rail vertical, and remove the tool. Repeat on all three and the motor shafts will be perfectly centered to the yoke for vertical lead screws.